The story of brewing in Plzen goes back to at least the 13th century, when the burgers of the town were granted brewing rights by King Wenceslas. The breweries were typically large homebreweries, and for several centuries, the beer produced was pretty wretched. During the 19th century great advances in brewing technology took place in Munich, Vienna, and Copenhagen, and the citizens of Plzen set out to imitate the beers of Munich. In 1842, the new brewery was established, and although the beer produced there was not what was expected, it proved to be very popular. By 1870 the beers of Plzen were exported to Vienna, Paris, London and Moscow. The rapid growth continued, and by 1913, the brewery's output exceeded 1 million hectoliters, making it the largest brewery in Europe.
All over the country, the larger breweries are investing and expanding, which of course means that we'll see a shake out of the smaller Czech and Slovak operations. Already, Pilsner Urquell has gobbled up the nearby Gambrinus, Domazlice, Cheb, and Karlovy Vary breweries. Undoubtedly more consolidation will follow.
This may not be as bad as it sounds. Even though it's always a shame to see smaller enterprises consumed by the big guys, at least the large Czech breweries have remained true to their traditions. Consequently, Czech brewing heritage does not have the large discontinuity that we find in America. Indeed, the American drinker would be surprised to learn that for the most part, the largest Czech breweries make the best beer.
Amidst all of this change, the brewers in Plzen are committed to keeping one thing constant, Pilsner Urquell itself. They fully recognize the value of their 150 year old reputation, and would do nothing to compromise it.
(Adapted from Change is Brewing at Pilsner Urquell -by CR Saikley) |