For the last several years, I’ve traveled to Bordeaux in the spring to taste the wines from cask of the preceding vintage. Presented below is my take on the 2002 vintage based on my tastings of 185 barrel samples on my trip from April 9-12.
Barrel sample tasting is an inexact science. However, like anything in life, the more you do it, the more skilled you become. I told all my Bordeaux customers that the 2000 vintage was a great one long before the critics weighed in with their pontifications. Last year, I printed in my report that 2001 was also excellent, but a bare half-step behind 2000. However, the 2001 wines sold for a lot less, making them good values. Generally speaking, 2002 was a challenging year for the Bordelais, but there were certain ‘sweet spots’ that produced superb wines. This is a vintage for which you need to rely on a trusted wine merchant, such as Green’s or a wine critic whose judgement you respect,because there is more mediocre wine than great wine.
For the 2002 vintage, stay with the top properties. This would seem to be a truism, but is really not. For example, the 2000 vintage was so consistent that it lifted the quality of the minor properties to heights they have rarely seen before. Not so with 2002.
Because of the variation in quality from appellation to appellation, and for that matter, property to property, I’ve broken my reviews down by district. I’ll also include recommendations of individual wines that I tasted. Please remember, I did not taste any First Growths, and missed some other Grand Crus. The ‘First Growths’ are, by definition, the very top properties, so I assume they’re all excellent.
|
MARGAUX
|
Very good wines made here. Overall, Margaux’s barrel samples were a little more inconsistent than its two neighbors to the north, St. Julien and Pauillac. Structured wines built to last.
Recommended Wines: Palmer, Alter Ego de Palmer, Giscours, Angludet, Cantenac Brown, Lascombs, Brane Cantenac, La Gurgue
Total Wines Tasted From This Commune: 16
|
ST. JULIEN
|
Excellent quality wines here. Again, stick to the top names. Powerful Cabernet Sauvignon-based wines that will age beautifully.
Recommended Wines: Leoville Barton, Gruaud Larose, Lagrange, Branaire, Gloria, Leoville Poyferre, Ducru Beaucaillou, St. Pierre
Total Wines Tasted From This Commune: 11
|
PAUILLAC
|
If I were to pick one appellation that impressed me the most, this would be it. Excellent concentration, and the tannins to give these wines superb aging potential.
Recommended Wines: Pichon Baron, Les Tourelles de Longueville, Pontet Canet, Lynch Bages, Haut Bages Averous, Haut Bages Liberal, Pibran, Clerc Milon, D’Armailhac, Pedesclaux, Lynch Moussas
Total Wines Tasted From This Commune: 14
|
back to top
ST. ESTEPHE
|
St. Estephe is good but, to my taste, the least consistent of the four major communes of the Medoc. Massively tannic, some may not have the fruit to last the many years it will take for these wines to mature. There are, however, several excellent examples.
Recommended Wines: Montrose, Calon Segur, Lafon Rochet, Phelan Segur, La Dame de Montrose
Total Wines Tasted From This Commune: 11
|
PESSAC-LEOGNAN/GRAVES
|
Both the red and white wines were successful here. The usual rule applies in this case, since the most successful wines come from the top properties. The better reds have the structure for long cellaring, and are listed below.
Recommended Wines: Pape Clement, Domiane de Chevalier, Malartic Lagraviere, Haut Bailly, Smith Haut Lafitte, Olivier, Carbonnieux, Poumey
Total Wines Tasted From This Area: 14
|
MEDOC & HAUT MEDOC
|
Overall, better than the less prestigious appellations on the ‘right bank’. Nevertheless, these predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon-based wines are far less consistent than their brethren in the Pauillac, St. Julien, Margaux, and Graves. Excellent wines can be found here, however.
Recommended Wines: D’Agassac, Sociando Mallet, La Tour Carnet, Cambon La Pelouse, Karolus, Vieux Robin Bois de Lunier, Clement Pichon, Les Grand Chenes, Verdignan, Rollan de By, Hanteillan, Lanessan, Caronne Ste. Gemme, Maucaillou, Fonreaud, D’Escurac, Chasse Spleen, D’Aurilhac
|
back to top
ST. EMILION
|
I was mildly disappointed in the Merlot dominated bastion. Some wines were diluted. Other examples seemed over-extracted. It seemed difficult to get it just right. 2001 was, overall, no competition for 2000 in this area but, there were some delightful surprises.
Top wines tasted: Canon La Gaffeliere, L'Angelus, Grand Mayne, Carillon de Angelus, Figeac, Berliquet,La Mondotte, Teyssier,and Laforge
Total wines tasted from this commune: 30
|
POMEROL
|
Unfortunately I had a small sampling of Pomerols (9) so my general impression of the area may not be quite accurate. Again, these are Merlot based wines. The level of quality seemed more consistent that St. Emilion, but little here seemed in the first rank.
Top wines tasted: Gazin
|
MISC. 'RIGHT BANK' SATELLITE WINES
|
No, I'm not referring to wine made in outer space, but to those districts on the east side of the Gironde River outside of St. Emilion and Pomerol. We're talking Cote de Castillon, Lalande de Pomerol, etc. I tasted only 4 from this region but 3 seemed very special. I hope this is indicative of the overall quality. They're great values, too.
Top wines tasted: d'Aiguilhe, La Fleur Bouard, and La Fleur Bouard Plus
|
DRY WHITE BORDEAUX
|
Now this is really exciting! 2001 white Bordeaux may be the region's best ever. Spectacular weather for white wine grapes combined with new modern wine-making techniques have produced wines that, I predict, will be as legendary as 2000 was for the reds. If the initial promise holds, these wines will make you forget about white Burgundy.
Top wines tasted: Dom de Chevalier, Carbonnnieux, La Louviere, Malartic Lagraviere, and Pape Clement
Total wines tasted in this region: 10
|
SAUTERNES AND BARSAC
|
So many wines, so little time! I literally ran out of time and could sample only 2. Everyone I talked to in Bordeaux who attended tastings of these wines came away praising these as a potential great vintage. The two I tasted, Coutet and Doisy Vedrines, were superb. A year to buy!
|
|
As I write this few Bordeax properties have released their prices. Green's will be offering 2001 Bordeax on a "FUTURES" basis. Commit now, pay later. If you received this report via email, you'll automatically receive our sales list. However, If you are visiting our website and are not signed up for the "hard copy" newsletter, "Green's Grapevine" send your address to: Green's, 2614 Buford Highway, NE, Atlanta, GA 30324 (Attn: Michael Bishop). Or click here to sign up online:
Green's is Atlanta's #1 source for Bordeaux. We also carry a world class selection of older wines from this region dating back to 1970. For information call Reid or Brian at 404-321-6232 ext 1 at our Buford Hwy store or Harmon Johnson at 404-872-1109 at the Ponce de Leon location. Better yet, stop in and say hello.
-Green's Wine Buyer, Michael Bishop |
|